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Ideas from our valued customers!

Have your own idea? Enter your submission here.

Disclaimer: these ideas have been generously submitted by customers in hopes of helping others. Use common sense and proceed at your own risk. Less EMF assumes no risk or responsability for offering these ideas, and neither do the customers who were kind enough to share them.

Customer Projects

submitted 06/04/17 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
No Radiation Logo Problem Description:
Versatile EMF Garments that are easy to wash

Equipment and Materials Used:
Naturell Fabric, Argenmesh fabric

My Idea and methods:
General Information

  • Spring/summer garments made from Naturell; fall/winter garments made from ArgenMesh.
  • Made for in-house wearing generously sized to easily slip on and off over clothing.
  • Can be worn front-to-back, back-to-front, or even inside out.
  • All measurements are approximate; diagrams are NOT drawn to scale. Exact measurements won’t make a big difference since the garments are loose fitting.
  • Sleeves are cut from remnants then sewn on to conserve fabric.
  • Purposely made in pieces that come apart easily making washing by hand less cumbersome.
  • Edges are bound or finished to eliminate fraying.
  • All garments are sewn by hand but can be machine sewn. 1/4 to 1/2 inch seam allowance used.
  • Sleeves are designed to eliminate problems when working in the kitchen without having to remove the garment. Alternately, full-arm coverings can be made using the ArgenMesh patterns shown on a previous entry. However, these full-length sleeves are not practical when working around food and the sink and are almost impossible to keep clean. If not working around food, sleeves with soft elastic at both ends can protect the arms from RFs and don't slide down if worn over long sleeves from a garment underneath such as a turtleneck top.
  • An apron is worn over a garment to save on washing.
  • Experiment with multiple ways to wear the tie/belt. e.g. thread tie/belt so when tied, the front or back panel hangs straight down or skip the tie/belt and let the apron when tied in back act as a substitute for the tie/belt.
  • Example of embellishment: 6 ladybug shank buttons sewn on velcro strips at shoulders--three each side of neck opening. For an alternate look wear inside out and the buttons won’t show. (The buttons can have their shanks removed and velcroed to the garment. I found this easier than trying to sew them on AND the buttons don't get in the way when washing the garment. Use any left over buttons and make a matching bracelet.)

Front and back are one continuous piece with sleeves sewn on which are attached together at their bases with sewn-on snaps.. The bottom ends of the front and back are tied to each other on both sides. This allows for air circulation on the sides when it gets very hot but alternatively may be overlapped using Velcro. The neck edge was bound with bias tape. A woven yarn belt can also be worn.

Follow the directions for the Full-Length ArgenMesh garment cutting it to the desired short length. It could be made using the Naturell Short-Top pattern but ArgenMesh creates bulk when washing by hand so it is preferred to wash the ArgenMesh Short Top in two separate pieces.

Made with one generous length of Naturell with no tucks or darts since it is intended to be worn under the top. The waist won't show and the fabric is so light it doesn't bunch up. Measure a generous amount of Naturell to go around the waist and add a foot or so allowing for overlapping. Then measure the length desired and cut a piece of fabric to match the width and length measurements. Sew bias tape at waist edge extending tape at both ends to allow for wrapping around waist and tying ends together. If the ends are too long just do a simple chain stitch with the excess ends and let them hang as an embellishment below the Naturell top.

To make washing easier the front and back are made separate with a half sleeve sewn to each piece. Velcro connects the front, back and sleeve halves extending from the neck opening to the tip of each sleeve. Sleeves are attached together at their lower bases with sewn-on snaps. Sides can be closed using horizontally sewn velcro strips or wearing a belt with/without vertically sewn loops on the front and back pieces. Note: the full-length ArgenMesh garment is not shown in a photo since it it so similar to the long Naturell garment. Hat

Scarves are made from triangle remnants, edges bound and then embellished and can be worn with any garment. Two embellishments are done with flower pounding highlighted with non-toxic fabric paint and another with non-toxic fabric paint alone.

HAT Simple hat for wearing in-house to protect brain from EMFs/RFs was made from scraps of Naturell and trimmed with scraps of lace (Not shown in photos.)

Short Top Full Length Garment Short Top Short Top

Summer RF-protective-fabric poncho
submitted 10/7/15 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Summer Poncho Problem Description:
I wanted to create a light-weight breathable summer RF-protective-fabric poncho and embellish its accessories with flowers and plant images.

Equipment and Materials Used:
Naturell Fabric

My Idea and methods:
* Naturell fabric. Naturell is cooler than the more protective ArgenMesh.
* Remnants of bias tape
* Non-toxic fabric paint
* Fresh flowers/Arbor vitae greens
* Flower Pounding technique--check websites for how to do this technique. Flower pounding doesn't always give clear outlines on this RF fabric. The sources I read recommend using cotton fabric for best results. The EMF fabric isn't as absorbent to give distinct outlines but with the use of non-toxic fabric paint, creations of your own can be made. Experiment on scraps and be sure to hand wash items carefully and use only TexCare laundry soap for any EMF fabric.

Dimensions Construction
1. Make poncho using a favorite pattern. I made French seams and bound the lower edge and neck with wide bias tape, inserting elastic in neck to fit comfortably.

Triangles Triangles 2. For double triangle shoulder piece, remnants were used so these measurements are approximate. Two triangles each measuring 12" x 19" x 25". (See diagram--not drawn to scale.) Bind cut edges with bias tape. Before sewing one piece on top of the other, I did flower pounding, then painted the results to highlight the flowers. See diagram for placement of triangles over each other. Can be worn over the shoulders and tied loosely in front.

3. The single triangle is again a remnant. Make any desired size. I used the flower pounding technique for a light outline of arbor vitae greens. There was no fabric paint used, what you see is directly from pounding the arbor vitae. Can be worn over the shoulders or as a scarf.

Shielding dress with Soft&Safe bamboo fabric
submitted 10/7/15 by: A. Fabry
Bamboo Dress Problem Description:
I needed to go a three-day convention in a Wi Fi environment and wanted something to shield my body.

Equipment and Materials Used:
Soft&Safe Fabric
Conductive Thread

My Idea and methods:
I purchased 5 feet of Soft & Safe along with conductive silver thread (The thread is not necessary, just a nice bonus.) I hired Najeeba, an Afghan refugee, and professional seamstress, to create a dress using one of my older dresses as a pattern.

My anti-radiation dress cost approximately $200. If you're interested in working with Najeeba on a similar dress, contact me through my About page found here.

Living safely in a wireless world is not an easy task. Thankfully steps like turning off your router at night, holding your cell phone away from the body, and replacing your cordless DECT phone can go a long way toward protecting yourself and your family. An anti-radiation dress may not hurt either!

Part 2 of 2: RF Protective Compact Portable Bed Canopy-- ENHANCED VERSION (General Information for single bed)
(Refer to the directions and photos for constructing the BASIC Version of the RF Protective Compact Portable Bed Canopy previously submitted then proceed with these added instructions.)
submitted 6/2/15 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Portable Canopy Bag Problem Description:
Accessories for the canopy.

COVERING for PVC PIPES (optional):

Equipment and Materials Used:

* Fabric: Remnants of cotton fabric were used so only general directions and measurements are given.

* 2 covers for vertical poles each 39" x 6 1/2" Wide
* 1 cover for horizontal bar: 104" x 6 1/2" wide
Allow extra on the long edges for hems and seam allowances if needing to piece. Narrow edges were frayed and not hemmed. The extra length allows the covering to go over the elbows at the corners of the horizontal bar and also drape over the T fitting on the floor.

* Velcro pieces about 1/2" square cut from remnants; used to secure edges of piece covering horizontal pipe, spacing as necessary.
* 18 Velcro reusable strips 8"L x 1/2" W (purchased from Lowes)

Secure fabric on vertical poles by placing a reusable strip on the couplers and above and below each coupler and where needed. Placing on, above and below the coupler makes a pleasing pattern.

CARRYING BAG: Materials and Directions: (See photos)

Equipment and Materials Used:

Portable Canopy Bag * Fabric: (Cut from remnants of heavy fabric used for cushions.) Used a piece about 40" x 34". I made the bag large enough to allow for any RF garments I might want to carry with me.

* Handles and 2 optional decorative stripes: 1" wide polyester webbing (purchased from Harbor Freight Tools) Amount is determined by options, length of handles, and amount needed if increasing the handle width. (Basic measurements were taken from a yoga mat carrying bag.) For handles--two pieces of webbing were overlapped and stitched to give more support. Then attach the ends of the webbing to form one big loop. Next lay the loop on right side of fabric spacing it so it's centered and handles, which extend beyond the 40" edges, are equidistant from the 34" edges of fabric. When sewing handles begin stitching at four points about 7" down from 40" (zippered) edge of bag. This enables handles, when lifting the bag, to hang straight down.

* Foam: Two foam pipe covering pieces, the kind to insulate pipes, about 4 1/2" long, 1 1/4" D Slip these on the webbing for a softer gripping handle. Sew decorative stripes if using before folding fabric in half to apply zippers.

* Zippers: Fold fabric in half to measure 40" x 17". Use 2 heavy duty zippers each long enough to go up the 17" side from the fold and half way across the 40" side where they will meet. (Remnant zippers were used and didn't meet at the center when zipped so strips of velcro were used and placed where the zippers would have met.)

* Finishing: See photo for end view using 3 small plastic rings and a shoelace to secure each end.

Part 1 of 2: RF Protective Compact Portable Bed Canopy-- ENHANCED VERSION (General Information for single bed)
(Refer to the directions and photos for constructing the BASIC Version of the RF Protective Compact Portable Bed Canopy previously submitted then proceed with these added instructions.)
submitted 6/2/15 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Portable Canopy Problem Description:
To give more headroom inside the canopy.

HOOP: (The purpose of the hoop is to give added room around the head area and not have the fabric come down in an inverted V shape at the head of the bed.)

Equipment and Materials Used:

One sturdy 36" hula hoop (Before cutting make a note of the circumference for future reference. Cut hoop into five equal pieces.)

Flexible tubing, about 10', whose diameter fits snuggly into the hoop pieces (Hint: take a piece of hoop with you when shopping to find a proper fit. Can be found in the plumbing department of Home Depot.)

Sturdy plastic 3" jar lid

6 shower curtain rings 2" ID (inner diameter) (purchased from Dollar Tree Store)

1/2" wide twill tape--5 pieces each 22" long (purchased from fabric store)

1/2" wide 55" long velcro strip divided--5 pieces of 11" each of the loop (soft) side of the strips and 5 pieces of 4" each of the hook (scratchy) side of the velcro

Sturdy cord to string through lid for a 1" loop

5 cable ties each 4" long x 1/4" wide

My Idea and methods:
Construction of the hoop

Cut flexible tubing about 4" to 5" shorter than the circumference of the hoop resulting in a number divisible by five. Cut tubing into 5 equal pieces. (Each piece will be shorter than the pieces of the hoop.)

Mark the center of each piece of tubing and make a hole all the way through coming out the opposite side. The hole should be large enough for a cable tie to go through but with a snug fit. (Practice on a scrap of tubing.)

Slip a cable tie all the way through coming out the other side, bring it up and around slipping it through the lock on the end of the cable, then slip the end back into the original hole. This eliminates having a cut end that is sharp.

To assemble the hoop and tube: slip the tubing pieces into the hoop pieces. Hoop pieces will stop at each of the cable ties and the hoop when completed will maintain its original sturdy circular shape. If hoop pieces don't all snug up to cable ties, trim a little more off tubing pieces.

Hanger for the hoop

On the part of the T fitting hanging down from the horizontal overhead PVC pipe drill 2 holes directly across from each other. Insert a shower curtain ring.

On the top of the 3" lid mark and drill 5 holes evenly spaced toward the outer edge and large enough for a shower curtain ring to go through each hole. Insert a ring into each hole.

Toward the center of the lid drill two holes. Thread a heavy string or cord through the holes tying a knot on the underside of the lid and forming about a 1" loop on top. The loop will hang from the ring that is on the T fitting attached to the overhead horizontal pipe.

Spokes for hoop Portable Canopy

Fold over 1" on one end of each piece of twill tape. Stitch. Slide each of these loops onto a shower curtain ring attached to the lid.

At the opposite end of the twill tape sew a 4" strip of the hook (scratchy) side of velcro facing out. Then continuing on from that 4" piece join and sew an 11" loop (soft) side of velcro strip facing out.

Attaching spokes to hoop Portable Canopy

Lay hoop on flat surface. Lay lid with spokes in center of hoop. Extend a twill tape spoke to each cable tie on hoop. Go under and over the hoop, pressing the velcro onto itself. Be consistent with placing all spokes either to the right or left of each cable tie. In the photo the black O rings only serve the purpose of highlighting where the cable ties are. They are not needed for this project.

Pick up the loop from the center of the lid to check the balance of the hoop and if necessary adjust the velcro strips.

Hang the loop from the shower curtain ring hanging from the T fitting attached to the overhead horizontal pipe. Adjust the velcro strips if necessary for balance.

RF Protective Compact Portable Bed Canopy-- BASIC VERSION (General Information for single bed)
submitted 6/2/15 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Portable Canopy Problem Description:
Needed a portable RF shielded canopy.

Equipment and Materials Used:

  • 18 (1"D) PVC pipes: 10 1/2" (5); 19 1/2"(2); 20 1/2" (6); 24" (5)
  • 19 (1"D) PVC fittings: elbows (6); Ts (2--or 3 if using a T to replace the coupler in the horizontal bar for the ENHANCED version); couplers (7--or 6 if replacing the coupler in the horizontal bar with a T for the ENHANCED version); end caps (4) (See illustration)
  • Frame
  • For the BASIC version the horizontal pipes could be cut in whatever lengths desired. The ENHANCED version requires both the T and the given measurements for pipe lengths to make it easy for the whole project when dismantled to fit into the carrying bag (submitted in a subsequent posting). The T will be used to secure a hoop hanging from the horizontal bar for the ENHANCED version.
  • * Dowels: 1" long x 1/4" D; minimum of 20, extras are recommended
  • Naturell fabric--purchased 22' x 8'2" allowing a small amount extra for another project.
  • Holes for fittings-- One end of each PVC pipe has an elbow, T, coupler, or cap (referred to as fittings) permanently attached. This eliminates many small pieces getting lost or determining where they should connect. Mark then drill where holes should be made through a fitting into a pipe. Pound a 1" L x 1/4"D fluted dowel into the set of holes so the top of dowel is level with the pipe. Make another set of holes at the opposite end of a fitting with the pipe that will slide into it. This set of holes will have the dowel stuck firmly into it but can be pulled out to dismantle the frame. (See photo)

  • Portable Canopy Portable Canopy
  • Side-to-side bed pieces--Divide a 16' L x 8'2" W of Naturell fabric into two pieces each measuring 16' x 4'1" for covering the horizontal bar from side-to-side over the bed. Overlap the pieces 8" or 9" for an entrance/exit at the side of the bed. Drape the edges of fabric over the ends of the horizontal bar several inches. (See drawing)
  • End pieces--Measure the height from the floor up to the top end of the side-to-side fabric draped over the horizontal bar. (This measurement will be less than the measurement from the floor up to the top end of the PVC frame itself since the side-to-side fabric overhangs the ends of the frame thus saving a few inches of fabric.) Fold in half the 6' x 8'2" fabric remaining (6' x 4'1"). From the 6' piece cut the needed measurement to reach the top of the side-to-side pieces draped over the frame. Cut the fold so 2 pieces are apparent. Attach the end pieces to the draped over pieces and stitch from the bottom up to the height of the bed tapering up to the top easing as necessary, then stitch flat at the top about 3" rather than making a pointed peek. This makes for a loose, roomy cover. Cut off excess. Refer to illustration and photos for clarification.
  • Optional mini-pocket: "Naturell RF Fabric information and care" pocket can be created and velcroed to the Naturell at the top ends overhanging the horizontal bar (not shown). Information can be written on paper and placed therein informing others about Naturell's RF protection and care. It would be easily removable when washing the Naturell.
  • May be possible but not tried--an RF portable canopy for a queen- or king-size bed. Make 2, 3, or 4 frames as described above and use Ts and Cross-shaped fittings to replace all couplers on the horizontal bar of each frame. Then connect all frames using horizontal pipes running perpendicular to the original horizontal bars. Figuring the amount of fabric necessary and constructing the cover should be similar to the single-bed cover.

Portable Canopy My Idea and methods:
(This information is also pertinent for an ENHANCED version to be posted later with exceptions as noted.)

All measurements are approximate.
Measurements for single bed: approximately 75" L x 40" W x 28" H.
Measurements for frame: approximately 77 1/2" L x 24" W at base x 68" H.

Approximate 2" clearance between bed and frame at head and foot of bed.
* For ease in bed making and changing of linens--just flip the Naturell over the PVC.
No metal or glue used in the BASIC version. No glue but two metal zippers used in the carrying bag for ENHANCED version.
PVC primed and painted with no-voc paint to seal PVC toxicity. Avoid painting within an inch on the ends of the pipes to allow pieces to attach easier.
All Naturell fabric edges were overcast to eliminate fraying. French seams were used throughout. (All stitching was done by hand but can be sewn by machine.)
Where a PVC pipe with attached fitting connect to a pipe, label the spots with a desired numbering system making it easier to assemble the frame by matching the numbers.
* The terms pipe, pole and bar are used interchangeably for PVC .

Various Garments
submitted 6/18/14 by: Alex Hyde from Los Angeles CA
Problem Description:
Improved clothing for protection. Share my photos--practical solutions for fabric buyers.

Equipment and Materials Used:
Argenmesh fabric, High Performance Silver Mesh, Pure Copper Taffeta.

I collaborated with a good tailor on making a fine, affordable garment.

Boxers Short Sleeve Shirt Mesh Shirt Mesh Shirt Close Up

RF Protection Cape
submitted 5/5/2014 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
RF Protection Cape Problem Description:
To make a comfortable, easy on-and-off RF protection cape. The cape is not lined and is plenty warm as is or by varying layers of clothing underneath. Good for MN weather! I made this entire garment by hand so for non-sewers you can do it too. I made French seams to secure the edges from raveling.

Equipment and Materials Used:
Argenmesh fabric.
I adapted a cape pattern from Simplicity NewLook Pattern #A6227 view C but added pockets and tabs from view B. The flaps and tabs on the pockets are for decoration only. My pockets open behind the flaps. As seen in the photo, buttons and tabs are also used for trim. RF Protection Cape

The arm slits shown in the pattern were wide and RFs could "get in" so I cut an extra rectangle for each opening using pattern piece #11 (front facing piece) as a guide. (Ignore the pointed ends in pattern piece #11 and cut these extra pieces as rectangle shapes 13" x 3".) I then stitched the rectangle to what would be the edge of the facing closest to the opening center of the cape. Hem the other 18" side but leave unattached for the arm opening. Fold the corners of the rectangles over the pointed ends of the facing pieces stitching in place to secure the ArgenMesh which now covers the slit but leaves an opening for arms to go through. One photo shows me holding an 18" long piece pulled partially through a slit while the other shows both slits with the 18" pieces inside the cape covering the openings.

The elastic shown around the buttons for closure down the middle of the cape are elastic pony tail hair accessories wrapped midway with brown thread to create two stretchable loops for buttons.

If desired arm protection can be worn with the cape. See earlier submissions. I also can wear a choice of several ArgenMesh hoods which are separate from my garments to make them easily washable.

ArgenMesh Poncho
submitted 4/22/14 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
ArgenMesh Poncho Problem Description:
I wanted to make a poncho to wear under a commercially made polar fleece poncho. I also wear the ArgenMesh poncho alone depending on the temperature and weather.

Equipment and Materials Used:
Argenmesh fabric

ArgenMesh Poncho Solution:
I merely used the polar fleece poncho as a pattern, cut it out of ArgenMesh, finished the seams so they wouldn't ravel and instead of an attached collar I hemmed the neck and strung soft elastic through it. I wear an ArgenMesh hood I made with the outfit.

ArgenMesh Coat
submitted 12/15/13 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
ArgenMesh Coat Problem Description:
A lightweight RF shield Coat

Equipment and Materials Used:
Argenmesh fabric

Pockets are made from ArgenMesh remnants. Not all ArgenMesh is the same shade. The contrast at the neck and down a small portion of the front is from a dark colored scarf lined with ArgenMesh. Shown is a simple diagram which I adapted from a Japanese kimono pattern adding an extra piece at the end of each sleeves reaching to the ends of my fingertips when arms were at my side. ArgenMesh Coat Pattern

The pockets and trim of wide bias tape were my own ideas. The front has a slit; the drawing indicates an opening but there is no piece cut out. I no longer make hoods attached as it is easier to wash a detachable hood without needing to wash the entire garment. Instead wearing a scarf made with ArgenMesn and one of my hat sets works well. The size is purposely made to accommodate a winter coat but I've worn it with no coat and it draped beautifully. I store both the "coat", scarf and detachable hood in an attractive cloth bag I've made for portability.

Simple mitten linings made from ArgenMesh to protect hands from RFs and to use scraps of ArgenMesh as embelishments on a hat, scarf,and mitten set..
submitted 10/20/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Simple mitten linings

Equipment and Materials Used:
Argenmesh fabric

Directions for making mitten linings

1. Ignoring the thumb which will be a separate piece, trace around hand and desired length at wrist allowing for hem. Then add 1/2" all around the outline, 1/4" of this will be the seam allowance. The remaining 1/4" allows for a roomy fit since most mittens stretch. Cut 4 pieces.

2. Do the same with the thumb extended, being sure to leave sufficient fabric for a seam where thumb will connect to hand fabric. Cut 4 pieces.

3. Determine where your thumb would fit on the hand piece. Stitch one thumb piece to one hand piece and the second thumb piece to the second hand piece. 5. Complete second mitten using the same procedure. Do not turn right side out as you will want the right side touching your hand when you slip the linings into the mittens.

Simple mitten linings Directions for embellishments

1. This may seem a little tricky but it worked for me. Cut 1" wide strips of ArgenMesh as long as your fabric allows and stitch them into long tubes using 1/4" seam. Then I zigzagged the edge to keep fabric from fraying and reinforcing the seam.

2. Carefully and with a lot of patience turn the tubes to right wide out. Work the tubes through whatever type of cable stitches you've made in your hat, scarf and mittens to create a pleasant looking design. Tack down if necessary. I wear the ArgenMesh hat liner (shown in an earlier submission) under my hat.

Headband for ArgenMesh hat liner
submitted 10/20/13 by: Me from St. Paul MN
Headband for ArgenMesh hat liner Problem Description:
Create a simple headband to wear with ArgenMesh hat liner

Equipment and Materials Used:
Argenmesh fabric

Make an ArgenMesh hat liner as seen in a previous submission and knit, crochet or purchase a headband to fit around the bottom of the liner to hold it in place on the head.

Improved fit and appearance.

Faraday Hat
submitted 9/6/13 by: V.K. from Red Bluff, CA
Faraday Hat Problem Description:
Getting burned from a new tower that actually killed some trees.

Equipment and Materials Used:
* Vietnamese Maiden's 22" brim hat
* High Performance Silver Mesh fabric, about 6 feet.

The veil is not sewn on the right edge, for gardening. I sewed a bead on each corner to hold it down, or I can tuck the beads in a pocket to get it out of the way of my hands. I cut a circle for the top of the hat. Leaving the side seam open, allows for putting on seat belts. The drawback is when the wind blows the side open. I sewed a bead on each corner that I can tuck into a pocket or waistband. I am going to sew fasteners along the edge so I can have it stay closed.

It is long enough to shield my spine and yet is cool enough for gardening.

Arm Protection
submitted 6/29/13 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Arm Protection Problem Description:
Making covers that protect arms, hands and wrists from RFs during windy weather while wearing a poncho that may blow up when biking, hiking, walking and even driving a car with arms upon the steering wheel.

Equipment and Materials Used:
Arm Covers: Cut two pieces of ArgenMesh each 22-1/2" long (or long enough to fit your arm) by 17" wide
Elastic to fit one end of each arm cover

Hand and Wrist Cover: Cut two pieces of ArgenMesh each 14" long by 13" inches wide
Elastic to fit both ends of each hand and wrist cover
Bias Tape (enough to cover opening for each thumb hole)

Note: Turn over raw edges of ArgenMesh to keep from fraying.

Arm Covers: Fold each piece in half and stitch the long side to make a tube. Hem both ends and insert soft elastic in only the hem that will be near the upper part of the arm. Elastic can also be inserted in the other hem near the wrist if desired but that will keep air from getting to your arms.

Hand and Wrist Covers: Fold the piece in half and stitch 9" from what will be the part near the elbow. Leave an opening of 2-1/2" for the thumb, then stitch to the end. Bind the thumb opening with bias tape to cover the raw edges and reinforce the slit. Hem both ends. Insert elastic in both hems.

Both the arms covers and hands and wrists covers fit well and protect as planned.

Staying cool while RF Shielding
submitted 6/29/13 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Staying cool Problem Description:
How to cool oneself on a hot day while wearing shielding garments.

Equipment and Materials Used:
* Endura Cool Bandana (Instant Cooling Bandana) $12.98 size.: 16.25" x 32.5"
* Endura Cool Towel (Instant Cooling Towel) $14.98 size: 13" x 37"

Both of the above were purchased at Lowe's and come in blue or bright yellow green. The website for Endura Cool products is: www.missionathletecare.com. I did not find the bandana on their website however. The large size towel purchased at Lowe's was larger than the large size on mfr website yet for the same price.

Both products are lightweight, soft, breathable, reusable, and machine washable.

NOTE: I have no association with the company that sells these products and am not compensated in any way for suggesting these products be used in the manner presented in this submission. These products were suggested to me by a mom involved with adult premier soccer league players who use the towels.

1. I put my ArgenMesh cap liner (seen in an earlier submission) on my head then wet, rung, and snapped the bandana as directed. Then I placed the bandana over the cap tying it in the back. Over that I put on my straw hat (not shown in the photo). The bandana and towel (as described below) kept my head and upper body cool for several hours while shopping in a couple of stores.

2. I omitted the cap liner and just put the wet, wrung, and snapped bandana directly on my head and wore the collapsible hat of ArgenMesh (seen in an earlier submission) over it. Sitting directly in the sun with the temperature in the high 80s the cool lasted over an hour. I also wore the towel at the same time as described in the following paragraph.

3. Twice I've worn the towel under my poncho. I prepared it by wetting, wringing, and snapping the towel then putting it over my shoulders connected by two office clips which themselves are connected by a piece of soft elastic to allow for ease of movement. (One could also use a sweater guard.) There has been no problem keeping it on or restrictiing movement.

As advertised the coolness lasts about two hours but can be renewed by just wetting, wringing, and snapping as directed. Using this product is an alternative to being unable to wear ArgenMesh at all in hot weather. I can now wear ArgenMesh and get both RF protection and feel cool at the same time.

Collapsible Hat
submitted 5/23/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Collapsible Hat Collapsible Hat Problem Description:
Creating a collapsible shielding hat.

Equipment and Materials Used:
NOTE: Be aware the illustrations are NOT drawn to scale; @ = approximately; st = stitch; 1/4 inch seams used unless otherwise noted
* ArgenMesh (my hat was made from remnants so I didn't measure)
* Elastic (narrow) @ 3 yds.
* Bias tape @ 3 yds.
* Pair of 20 inch shoelaces for ties
* 2 snaps (optional)
* Collapsible steel spring ring. This may be difficult to locate. I used the one from a hat I had. I've not been able to locate a source for purchase but I'm still searching. If you know of a source please let LessEMF know so it can be posted. Instructions

See instruction in image at left

Turned out even better than expected. Hat can be worm in many different configurations and it can be stowed very compactly.

Jacket-type Poncho
submitted 5/3/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Jacket-type Poncho Problem Description:
Create a short jacket-type poncho for RF protection that is roomy enough for a coat to be worn underneath

Equipment and Materials Used:
McCall's pattern # M6150, view B. (I call my results a short poncho but the pattern refers to it as a capelet.)
ArgenMesh fabric, enough for the size pattern being made.
Notions as cited on the pattern.

I followed the directions for the pattern and for head protection I wear either an ArgenMesh lined hat or first put on one of the several ArgenMesh hoods I've made. (I find it easier to launder a separate hood rather than it being sewn directly into an article of clothing.)
Note: I chose View B because it is 5 inches longer than View A.

This poncho is roomy and I've had many compliments on it. I will probably make another and embellish it with some type of trim.

Custom Hoodie Jacket
submitted 5/1/2013 by: A.D. of Mt Baldy CA
Custom Hoodie Jacket Problem Description:
To create a stylish and proper fitting shielded hoodie to protect the upper body from microwave radiation.

Equipment and Materials Used:
I used RipStop Silver Fabric and Simplicity pattern #6142 that is a unisex hoodie and is available on line. The jacket also has two roomy side seam pockets

With a zipper front, the jacket is easy to put on and take off, very light-weight, and futuristic looking!

Lavender Hat Set
submitted 4/18/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Lavender Hat Set Problem Description:
I wanted a hat, scarf, and hand warmers with removable shielding liners so the liners can be laundered separately.

Equipment and Materials Used:
* Worsted weight knitting yarn enough for hat, scarf, and hand warmers
* #10 knitting needles, #0 crochet hook, yarn needle
* Needle and thread for finishing the edges of ArgenMesh so it doesn't fray
* ArgenMesh hat liner with "button" shown and described in an earlier submission
* ArgenMesh remnants to line scarf and hand warmers

Notes: K=knit, P=purl, st(s)= stitch(es), measurements and directions are approximate since I created the scarf and hand warmers from scratch and then attempted to write the directions enabling others to make the same. The diagrams should help. For the scarf and hand warmers I used a ribbing of K2, P2 to match that of the hat rim but on all K stitches I inserted the knitting needle through the back loop in each stitch. This gives a slightly different look than inserting the needle through the front loop. Use either method.

Solution: Lavender Hat Set
Use a hat pattern that allows for a small hole in the top usually created when finishing a hat by pulling the yarn through the remaining stitches according to the pattern directions. After knitting the hat, I placed inside an ArgenMesh liner with a "button" on top. (See earlier submission and photos of the liner with the "button".) If the hole in the hat is too large to snugly hold the "button" in place simply weave a piece of elastic around the hole in the hat and tie it off inside. This elasticity will then allow the "button" to slip through and the liner be held in place and not slip out.

Hand Warmers:
1. Cast on about 40 sts or enough to go around your hand. Ribbing: (K2, P2) repeat for about 9".This will be Piece A.
2. Make a second piece. This will be Piece B.
3. Fold Piece A in half and using yarn sew from tip to thumb hole and from bottom of thumb hole to wrist edge. Repeat for Piece B.
4. Crochet a single crochet st around each thumb hole.
5. Slip Piece B inside Piece A lining up thumb holes.
6. Join the tip of Piece A with the tip of Piece B and crochet a single crochet st joining the two pieces.
7. Cut two pieces of ArgenMesh the same size as Piece A. Sew a narrow hem on all edges to keep the edges from fraying. Hemming will make the ArgenMesh smaller than Pieces A and B so it should not show at the wrist edge when hand warmer is complete.
8. Fold the ArgenMesh piece in half and sew as in diagram for Piece A.
9. Slip the ArgenMesh lining between Pieces A & B mathing the thumb holes.
10. Crochet a flared st around the wrist edge and make it look somewhat like a ruffled edge. I'm not a crocheter so I don't know the name of the st(s) used. Lavender Hat Set

1. Cast on about 40 st depending on how wide you want your scarf to be. Ribbing: (k2, P2) repeat for about 20".
2. Bind off 20 sts (or half of your beginning amount). The remaining sts will be worked into a pointed shape for about a 6" end that will be slipped through a loop at the opposite end of the scarf when worn.
3. Crochet a single crochet st across the bound-off sts.
4. On the remaining 20 sts continue knitting and purling decreasing and increasing as necessary to make about a 6" point or other shape to slip through loop at opposite end when worn around the neck. I made up what I did so I don't have specific directions to write here. When point is complete crochet a single crochet st around the edge.
5. Fold piece in half and sew side seam.
6. Crochet single crochet st around open end of scarf opposite the pointed end. Thread a piece of elastic through sts at the open end to decrease the opening slightly. This helps keeps ArgenMesh inside.
7. Using a single crochet st create a loop and secure it to the open end. This will be for the pointed end to slip through when worn.
8. Cut a piece of ArgenMesh 7" x 20" long. Sew to make a tube, hem and finish edges to keep fabric from fraying. Slip ArgenMesh tubing within the scarf . Tuck ends in if showing.

Very satisfied and will now be able to wash the hat, hand warmers and scarf separately from the ArgenMesh liners.

Simple Warm Rectangular RF Hat
submitted 4/3/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Problem Description:
Simple Warm Rectangular RF Hat

I wanted to create an RF protective hat that was warm, compact, foldable and soft.

Equipment and Materials Used:
* Pieces of an old soft sweater
* ArgenMesh pieces
* Soft elastic
* Four decorative buttons
* Thread

Simple Warm Rectangular RF Hat

1. Measure the circumference of my head and add one inch.
2. From a recycled sweater, cut a rectangle. Size: the number from step 1, by 9 inches.
3. Cut another same-size rectangle from ArgenMesh and put it on the wrong side of the sweater fabric.
4. Treated these two pieces (the lining and fabric) as one piece.
5. Place the rectangle so the right side of the fabric (the part that will show when you wear it) faces up with one 9 inch side on the right-hand side and one 9 inch side on the left. Fold the rectangle in half matching the two 9 inch sides. The wrong side of the fabric will now be showing. Stitch down the 9 inch side.
6. Hem one opening and insert the soft elastic to fit head size. Alternative: Instead of creating a hem to slip elastic through, the fabric can be cut so the bottom edge of the old sweater acts as a border for the hat. Then a piece of bias tape can be sewn inside and elastic strung through it. If the border fits snug enough and yet allows for putting on the hat easily there's no need for elastic.
7. Stitch across the other opening (which is the top of the hat). Turn the hat right side out.
8. To wear, put hat on. The two top corners will stick up, so tuck them down and smooth the tuck all the way around the back of the hat.
9. Add decorative buttons on both sides of the ear area, or if the hat is too large fold over equal-size tucks on both sides and add the buttons on top of the tuck.

Turned out just the way I wanted it and have worn it many times in the MN winter.

Shielded Hat Lining
submitted 3/22/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Problem Description:
Shielded Hat Lining

I wanted to make a hat lining that was removable so it could be washed without having to wash the entire hat and at the same time be versatile enough to be worn with a variety of hats I've made.

Equipment and Materials Used:
* ArgenMesh
* Soft elastic
* Smooth stone or other smooth object to fit as a top "knob"

Shielded Hat Lining

I measured around my head, cut scraps of ArgenMesh to fit the measurement. I started with a small circle for the top then added strips around to make it as long as I wanted, gathering or making small tucks to fit the previous layer. I wasn't very careful as to how the pieces would fit because the lining worn under any hat would not be showing. I did make sure all edges were overcast to prevent fraying as ArgenMesh tends to do.

I purposely added the smooth object at the top by tying a bit of soft elastic around it in a bowtie (in case I wanted to undo it to wear with a kind of hat other than shown in the photos). I tried a smooth stone but thought it too heavy so I had some of those plastic smooth "things" one can use in a flower vase to help flowers stay where they need to be. It worked well. There is one included in the photos to show what I have tried to describe. The "smooth things" can be purchased at a craft store. I guess a button would work just as well so hereafter I will refer to the top as a "button".

Shielded Hat Lining

I couldn't be happier with the results. The photos of the lavender and black hats show the "button" at the top of each hat. The lining is held in place with the button sticking through the hole. In future submissions showing these hats with matching mittens and scarves, there will be a comment on how to provide a workable opening at the top of the hat that fits the size of the "button".

RF Shielded Half Slip
submitted 3/17/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
RF Shielded Half Slip Problem Description:
Creating a half slip to wear under a long skirt, jumper or dress that would protect from RFs on the lower portion of my body. An RF short poncho would be worn on top.

Equipment and Materials Used:
* ArgenMesh shielding fabric
(1) wide enough to fit around the largest part of the hips with allowances for a side seam
(2) long enough to accommodate the length of whatever it will be worn under plus allowances for turned over waist and a bottom hem.

* Elastic long enough to fit around waist

* Thread

After calculating my measurements I cut a piece of ArgenMesh fabric wide enough to fit my hips plus enough for a side seam allowance and long enough to fit my longest skirt plus a turned-over waistband and about a 2 inch hem.

I sewed a side seam, turned down the top of the waist to create a waistband and inserted the elastic for a comfortable fit.
RF Shielded Half Slip

The hem can be of whatever width desired but I used about a 2 inch hem.

I chose to make a hand-made label and sewed it on the underside of the hem. The label indicates it is of special RF fabric and the care is stated. I've done this with each article of clothing I've made.

Perfect fit, has been worn with comfort and serves the purpose of what I set out to accomplish.

Long Sleeve Top
submitted 3/17/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
Problem Description:
Long Sleeve Top

I wanted to create a long-sleeve top to protect the top of my body from RFs. This garment may be worn with or without a separate hood. The garment slips over the head and does not have any zipper or buttons or slits to make the neckline open wider.

Sleeves are purposely made long enough to go over the tip of my fingers. Since the sleeves have elastic at the end of them they can easily be pulled down or pushed up if one wishes to cover/uncover their hands.

The length can be whatever the wearer wants. I made mine long to cover the top of RF leggings or half slip worn underneath that way I will get protection from shoulder to ankle without any uncovered areas and when wearing my separate hood I am completely covered except for my feet.

Equipment and Materials Used:
*Make sure the pattern or garment that is used as a pattern has a neck opening wide enough for the finished garment to slip over the head.

* Use a pattern or garment-to-be-copied that will cover the top of one's body and have long sleeves. I used an old top as a basic pattern and made the sleeves to reach my fingertips then made a one inch stand-up neckline. My top has no darts or tucks; it's as plain as can be.

ArgenMesh fabric to accommodate the pattern or garment-to-be-copied.

* Soft elastic to be used at the wrists.

* Thread

I chose an old garment that was close to what I wanted to create and cut out a paper template making adjustments to the neckline and longer sleeves. For the neckline I used an idea from a commercial pattern I had and adapted it accordingly.

I followed the typical way to sew and assemble a long-sleeve garment. If using a commercial pattern just follow the directions making sure an allowance for longer sleeves is made.

Hem the bottom and the end of each sleeve and insert soft elastic in the hem of each sleeve.

The completed garment fits well, serves the purpose, and will also go well with sweatshirts, sweaters or vests if they are long enough, otherwise the top can be tucked inside a skirt or jeans.

RF Shielded Leggings
submitted 3/4/2013 by: Me from St. Paul, MN
RF Shielded Leggings Problem Description:
I wanted to create something to protect my legs from RFs while wearing a poncho to protect the top of my body.

Equipment and Materials Used:
*Odd pieces of ArgenMesh fabric
*Soft elastic
*Four 3/4 inch Binder Clips (purchase at any office supply store)

I created two separate leg covers (somewhat like leggings) that would be able to be worn under jeans. I stitched together odd pieces from the S&D so these are not perfect in shape but they won't be seen anyway.
RF Shielded Leggings

The next step was to insert soft elastic in the top hem of each leg piece then to also clip the binder clips to the top edge of each, putting one clip in the front and one on the side of each leg piece. Following that I clipped the clips to the elastic of my underwear. spreading out the handles of the clips to be flat and comfortable. I use the clips as a back-up for the elastic since getting in and out of a car tended to pull the leg pieces down a bit. Better to be safe than sorry.

Fantastic! They work like a charm, are comfortable and protective.

Who said shielding can't be fashionable?

Here are some images for projects you can make with shielding fabrics.

We wish to apologize in advance:
These are not our images. We got these with a simple Google image search for "copper taffeta" or "silver fabric scarf" or similar search words. The items may not even use our shielding fabrics. But they give some ideas of what is possible with a needle, thread and a little creativity.
Who said shielding can't be fashionable?

Shielded Headwear
headwear shield headwear shield headwear shield
Shielded Legwear
legwear shield headwear shield legwear shield
Shielded Scarves
scarf shield scarf shield scarf shield
Shielded Copper Dresses
copper dress shield copper dress shield copper dress shield
Shielded Silver Dresses
silver dress shield silver dress shield
Shielded Silver Blouses
silver shirt shield silver shirt shield
Shielded Copper Drapes
copper drape shield copper drape shield copper drape shield
Shielded Silver Drapes
silver drapes shield silver drapes shield
Shielded Purses
Purse shield purse shield purse shield purse shield
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